Wednesday, November 1, 2017 by C. Michial Jones
On October 21, 2017, I began a journey that would span forty-eight hours of travel, two typhoons, and countless hours on the tatami. Leaving my home at 3:30 AM, I navigated the long haul through San Francisco and Tokyo, finally landing in Naha on the 22nd. I arrived just as Typhoon 21 was making its presence felt—a bumpy introduction to the birthplace of Karate.
I was met at the airport by Hobbs Sensei and our international group. After a quick taxi ride to Koza, we were greeted by Nakamoto Hanshi, Zaha Hanshi, and Takuma-san. The hospitality was immediate; over a steak dinner provided by the hotel staff, we set our training schedule and prepared for the week ahead.
The Training: Goju-Ryu and Kobudo
Our training was rigorous, typically consisting of two sessions a day, each lasting nearly three hours. We began by refining the entire Goju-Ryu curriculum, running the kata repeatedly under the watchful eyes of Nakamoto and Zaha Sensei. We also focused on Fukyu Kata in preparation for a demonstration scheduled for Karate Day.
The Kobudo sessions were equally intense. We delved deep into the weapons curriculum, working on:
- Bo: Shushi No Kun and Chuon No Kun
- Tonfa: Hama Higa No Tonfa and Nakamoto No Tonfa
- Nunchaku: Nunchaku Buri and Sogu
- Sai: Tokashiki No Sai
Training with a global cohort—practitioners from England, Slovenia, India, Zambia, and beyond—reminded me of the universal language of the martial arts.
Cultural Curiosities and “Okinawan Root Beer”
Between sessions, we explored the streets of Koza (Okinawa City). One afternoon, Nakamoto Sensei personally took me to Ippondo to be fitted for a new gi and obi. Afterward, we headed to an A&W for lunch. In a quirky culinary twist, my French fries arrived topped with mayonnaise and roast beef—a distinctively Okinawan take on an American classic.
The evenings were defined by “Social Hojo Undo.” Nakamoto Hanshi shared his private reserve of homemade Awamori, and the nights often stretched late into the morning, filled with conversation and Orion beer.
Testing in the So-Honbu
The pinnacle of the trip came on the 27th. With Typhoon 22 looming, we moved our rank testing and the Sayonara party up to the evening. The atmosphere was electric and nerve-racking; I was the first to test, performing my kata not only for Nakamoto Sensei but also for the assembled Okinawan Shibucho and international representatives. Passing that test in the heart of the So-Honbu is a memory I will carry forever.
The Fury of Typhoon 22
By the 28th, the second typhoon hit with full force. We were confined to the hotel as the staff lowered massive steel doors over the windows and entrances. We spent the day doing laundry, catching up on sleep, and watching the storm’s power from the safety of the lobby (much to the concern of the hotel staff).
Reflections on the Source
Our final day was spent in Naha, navigating the markets of Kokusai Dori and Heiwa Dori for souvenirs. In our final meeting, Nakamoto Sensei presented me with a pair of Kama and several pieces of his Shodo (calligraphy)—gifts I will treasure as much as the knowledge he shared.
The journey home was a marathon of bird-strikes, delayed flights, and security re-checks, totaling another 48-hour stretch of travel. Despite the exhaustion and the storms, the trip was transformative. To train one-on-one with a master, to test in front of the system’s seniors, and to bond with my Dentokan brethren was worth every bit of the struggle.
I returned home to my family with a notebook full of new material, a rank I worked hard to earn, and a deep gratitude for Nakamoto Sensei, Hobbs Sensei, and the rest of the group who made this pilgrimage possible.
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